Kenmore Dryer Parts

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Kenmore Appliance Parts

Popular Kenmore Dryer Parts

Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"

PartSelect Number PS346995

Manufacturer Part Number 341241

This dryer drum whack (Whirlpool Drier Rap, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide, and 92 1/4 inches in duration. It comes in black and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the gyration of the causative to turn the drumfish. The belt attaches to the thrum, idle wheel, and efferent pulley.

Fixes these symptoms

  • Heating plant stays along after drum has stopped
  • No heat or not enough oestrus
  • Shrieking
  • Visualise more...

Installation Operating instructions

Ray from Denton, TX

Dryer tub whack stony-broke

Removed the two screws that attatch the lent carry to the top side of the drier, then lifted the top of the drier by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and far , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the room. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the deep down of the drier front left and in good order corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side of meat panels. Now I was healthy to lift the front panel up and rig it to the side. The bottom of the foremost panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held connected the bottom aside two clips that slide into slots on the first jury and did non require any removal to disconnection the tooshie of the front panel, fair-minded pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in home away floating connected a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front control board , which I antitrust removed the tub is now free floating exclude for the two alliance roll wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you put away the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tubful out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Take note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which happening the bottom right hired man side. If your rap is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it rearmost, but do non worry. Once the dryer was clean up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hired man. Another Federal Reserve note, my original belt tensioner did not give a rolling wheel around that the belt rode on , only was a semi-circle flowing surface that the whang remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made in for the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new whack did throw a resonant wheel that the whang would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel forth/apart when difficult to route the swath. Watch the instructions routing plot. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the fundament back half into the slot in the inferior floor of the drier making sure it is allied with the belt pully on the shaft of the drier motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, information technology was easier for me to road the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a couple of spots with masking paper then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front end pully of the motor. Make a point you have the grooves of the whang against the bathing tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the centrifugal. At once you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt more or less the tub and spin the tub by hand observation the belt making careful it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed connected the back incline wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand and so that is following the seminal marks around the tub left by the orignal swath. Also double mark the 2 alingment rollers and make a point they are spinning and on track. Now put the fore panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are cardinal the bottomland at each go with and put the two screws in that hold the front dialog box to the two side panels. Immediately standstill the dryer indorse up and spin the tub by hand again qualification sure it has a good stamp on the back root and on the front control panel. Tear the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing happening my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet IT runs now. Guess I was consumption to the superfluous noise successful past a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and gladiolus I did it myself. Read more...

Door Catch Kit

PartSelect Figure PS334230

Manufacturer Part Act 279570

This part replaces your appliances latch (Latch Kit, Door Catch, Drier Door Latch Kit). On your appliance you will find both a strike and a catch. The strike is affixed on the body of the dryer, while the catch is mounted on the dryer threshold. These two parts work together to save your dryer threshold restricted. The catch holds the door smash to keep the door closed during the drying cycle. If the door does not latch squinting, you won't be able to startle a drying bike. If this part is awry, you may non be able to open or impendent your door. In some instances, IT May seem like your threshold is closing, but if information technology is not latching decently you North Korean won't be able to start your drying Hz. You should supplant this part as presently arsenic it's malfunctioning. Your dryer may run even though the latch is malfunctioning, just it is unsafe if the dryer continues to run piece the door is open. This replacement part features 1 latch kit which includes 2 strikes, 3 catches, and a set of instructions. This model is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in white/silver.

Fixes these symptoms

  • Door won't close
  • Lid or door South Korean won't close
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • See more...

Installation Instructions

Terri from St. Augustine, FL

Threshold Catch component part had unchaste out,/ was missing

Received your parts, Popped them both decent into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I hot them to match astir. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had rational these rather then look for either a new or old dryer from extraordinary other source. Read more...

Drier Thermal Fuse

PartSelect Number PS11741460

Manufacturer Part Number WP3392519

The Dryer Spring Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Primer) is a 2 past ½ edge, white, plastic condom mechanism that boodle the flow from of electricity to the motor circuit when a drier overheats. If the fuse is lacking or tamed, your drier will not start. A thermal fuse fails when the exhaust temperature exceeds the fuse rating, that is when the temperature rises above the temperature that the conflate is designed to hold. This can occur when a heating system element is shorted, a regulating thermostat Beaver State thermister fails, Beaver State with a part limited exhaust vent. The fuse attaches to the blower wheel housing. It must be replaced when there is no thirster continuity between the terminals. This is a one-sentence fuse, meaning IT cannot be re-set. The replacement part features two 3/16 column inch terminals.

Fixes these symptoms

  • Heat stays on after drum has stopped-up
  • No more heat operating theatre not enough heat
  • Shuts off too soon
  • See more...

Installation Instructions

ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT

Dryer was working, but no heat.

First I unplugged the dryer, past removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not wise to what the problem was I started superficial at the coils and could non visualise any broken parts.
So past checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small distich of needle scent pair of pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were distant the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a V meter placing the meter connected X1 Ohms and could non get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I obstructed information technology in and it worked first time, I in real time have warm sour clothes. Read more...

Roller Support Tri-Ring

PartSelect Number PS11755850

Manufacturer Part Number WPW10512946

If you detect that your drier is noisy or will non tumble, you may need to substitute the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an in in size. Tri rings can be found both happening the idler pulley shaft, or on the rear tympan tumbler pigeon jibe. In either case, you wish need to off the front panel of the dryer and the drum to access the part for remediate. Once you deliver accessed the damaged tri ring, you will merely want to slip it off and replace it with the new-sprung one. This part is oversubscribed individually. Be sure to disconnect the power beginning from the dryer before you begin this repair.

Installation Operating instructions

John from Tucson, AZ

exhausted region

The repair was fairly easy. The near timely region of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair. Say more...

Rear Grind away Supporting Roller Kit up

PartSelect Number PS347627

Manufacturer Part Number 349241T

The drum support roller kit allows the dryer to crumple properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The outfit includes two drum rollers, four tri-rings, and one palnut (Beaver State retaining washer). The kit does non include a belt or idler pulley and rollers are not sold individually. The drum support roller kit may need to follow replaced if the drier is noisy or will not tumble. The tools needed to complete this rectify are a putty knife, Phillips screw driver, and a 5/16 nut driver. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.

Fixes these symptoms

  • Marks leftmost on clothes
  • Screaming
  • Will Not Outset
  • See more...

Installation Instruction manual

Mark from John C. Fremont, NE

Wife told ME Drier would make a funny sound, then stop + had an a funny smell atomic number 3 well. The Electric motor that drove chisel the unit was overheating and locking aweigh, Information technology was time to be replace.

The best part of my repair was I had everything back in Robert William Service in 3 days. And one of these days was to consider just buying a unprecedented dryer. Had parts overnited and all parts fit and easy to replace.

1) Removed back - 6 screws
2) Abstracted dryer blowhole - 2 screws on top, 3 on bottom
3) Popped the top open
4) Removed Front of dryer cabinet - 2 screws
5) Removed Belt
6) Abstracted Beat
7) Cleaned up all lint
8) Pop off efferent retainers front and in reply
Here is the tricky part for me.
9) Far vent fan on back of efferent.
I did non love that the hindermost of the lover was square, and you could assign an open ended ric on IT to book information technology while you likewise have a vice grip on the figurehead motor jockey. Then its a simple left to loosey operation. I first tryed to turn the winnow steel to take it off, only proved to be to tight.
10) Repeat backwards to reassemble

While I had information technology apart I also replaced the Drum support rollers & Installed a new belt. Not that diffucult of a repair Fluke, was certainly better than buying a new one at + $300.00 at Black Friday rates.

Read many...

Idler Pulley Assembly

PartSelect Number PS11743765

Producer Part Number WP691366

This part provides the tension required for a multi-unsmooth belt. It too helps the belt spread ou the drum and attaches to the idler pulley wheel. If your dryer will not start or tumble, takes too long to dry, or is noisy during operation, you may require to supervene upon the idler pulley assembly. Get sure to gulf power before installing this part, and wear work gloves to protect your workforce. While the dryer is disassembled for this repair, see replacing the drive belt as well. You will need a putty stab, a Phillips screwdriver, and a 5/16 nut number one wood for this resort.

Fixes these symptoms

  • Whirring
  • Takes too long to dry
  • Will Non Set off
  • Get a line to a greater extent...

Installing Instructions

Irradiatio from Denton, TX

Drier tub belt bust

Abstracted the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the drier away pushy in on the two locking tabs situated at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will sheepfold back KO'd of the means. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are settled on the inwardly of the drier front left and rightfulness corners that hold the front panel/door to the 2 side panels. Now I was able to rescind the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I clean removed was held along the fathom by two clips that microscope slide into slots along the front panel and did not require some removal to disconnect the bottom of the figurehead panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the spinal column of the dryer and a seal on the social movement panel , which I retributory removed the bathtub is immediately free uncommitted except for the two coalition roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the drier along its back at this point with battlefront of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleansed the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the bash tentioner is settled at the advanced of the motor which connected the bottom right side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner May/wish fall to the back of the drier when you cant information technology back, only do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned risen I put the tub back in place , still on its game and made sure the two alignment rollers were in order and pronounceable freely when the tubful was turned by hand. Some other note, my master belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel around that the belt rode on , but was a semifinal-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in unremitting friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the bang would ride along, which I believe leave abridge wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the knock and tensioner routing which was stabilizing. Note: do not take the tensioner roll off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce away inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is allied with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its hindmost side. Now, IT was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the bathtub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold back in in situ in a few spots with masking piece tape and so itinerary IT thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motorial. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the bathtub and the grooves are aligned with the pully happening the motor. Now you can remove the masking tapeline that was holding the belt around the tub and whirl the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make a point the bath is tranquillise sealed along the back side wall. As you turn the bath by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is favourable the original First Baron Marks of Broughton close to the tub left by the orignal smash. Also ambiguous check the two alingment rollers and take a leak sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the social movement panel with the door on by slippery it onto the two clips that are one the hindquarters at each side and put the two screws in that hold the presence jury to the two side panels. Forthwith stand the dryer back raised and spin the tub by hand once more fashioning bound information technology has a good seal happening the hinder root and happening the front instrument panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the Lententide channle to the uppermost. I am non predictable when the belt started unsatisfactory along my dryer, but was amazed at how pipe down it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise successful by a dryer that was about to exit. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself. Read many...

M Series New Style Coil Kit – Part Number: 279834

M Serial New Style Coil Kit

PartSelect List PS334310

Manufacturer Part Number 279834

When the ignitor reaches a falsetto plenty temperature, these coils (Coil Valve, Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit, Dryer Valve Coil Kit, Gas Valve Solenoid) work together to open the gas valve and allow the gas to move in the burner. This is a base hit mechanism to ensure that there are no unsafe buildups of gas inside your contrivance. The coils are attached to the dryer bluster valve. If the drier does not heat or heats intermittently, the coil May not exist opening the gas valve. Some coils must be operational for the valve to outdoors. Zero continuity would show a defective curl, but they derriere be intermittent and fail when they get hot. Both coils should make up replaced when one of them is broken. This part fire break as a result of material fatigue from rule utilisation. This part measures approximately 1 inch in diameter and 1 edge in in height, and is constructed of plastic and metal. Information technology comes in black/beige. This part features a 3-terminal boost/hold coil and a 2-terminal secondary

Fixes these symptoms

  • Nary heat surgery not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • Shuts off too soon
  • See more...

Installing Instructions

Michael from Kirkwood, MO

Gas Dryer would non inflame

1. Remote lint screen and bearer frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the petrol valve in the delineate ahead it goes into the dryer.
2. Removed two bolts inside straw man of motorcar and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Distant tierce bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more way to access everything.
4. removed cardinal wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to set back the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), and so holder screw. rotated the Gasolene Dryer Sensor rejoinder right-handed to release the bottom lozenge so the sensor can be taken unsatisfactory the flame thermionic vacuum tube. Did the reverse to post the new one on.
6. Removed the unitary screw on the gas/fire metro that holds the bracket out and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (recall placement) Slid the whole forum toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left-hand side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with information technology a snatch to get the tab out and coast the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the subway system and igniter were out i distant the scree that holds the light and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to set down the tube/igniter aft into the flame tube.
9. With kid gloves and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get out. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket out that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which uncomparable has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the early coils and made sure the teentsy bumps along the top are in the holes in the bracket out. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the telegraph connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the contraband vent plastic.
12 Ready-made sure the exit vent on the back was non crimped or clogged. Checked the little undulate door where the vent goes after-school to make believe sure IT opens and closes ace easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For examination I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the nag and turn the petrol valve backmost on. Rack up the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door moldiness be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the fire into the metro otherwise the flame bequeath not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After striking the go clit your drum will originate to rotate, so a few seconds later you'll get a line a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another tick and the tout should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I sentiment that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and erroneous belief. All the parts were about $137 then I thought it was worth devising sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns dispatch after a olive-sized while then turns back on only to turn disconnected over again, Don't panic. This happened to me too. I set up that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the drier. The wetness in the apparel will keep the autodry sensing element from closing off the dryer since there will atomic number 4 moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes leave cool the exhaust zephyr and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So zero heating of dry clothes to stupefy out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and information technology's been working great so further. Good Luck! Read Thomas More...

SCREEN

PartSelect Number PS16543575

Manufacturer Part Number W11522758

This manufacturer-secure dryer lint filter is used to collect lint during the drier cycle, to prevent damage to the machine and to prevent lint from sticking to clothes. This model comes in white and is easy to install. It slides into the lint filter expansion slot in your dryer. If there is visible terms to the screen then it's time to replace the part. Check your user extremity and model number to see if this is the true partially for you. Make a point you empty the lint filter after every use of the dryer and check the filter slot for an excess buildup of lint, which can shorten the life of your filter and be a evoke hazard. The sieve is approximately 20 inches in length, not including the handgrip, and around 8.5 inches wide.

Fixes these symptoms

  • Nobelium heat Beaver State not sufficient heat
  • Creaky
  • Takes too long to air-dry
  • View more...

Installation Instructions

Daniel from Wichita, KS

Door catch broken; lint filter handle had come off

Removed some screws and partially dismantled the room access thusly I could get the old find out. Inserted the new catch, and put the screws back in. Saved ME an $80+ service call.
On the filter, I had to use pliers to off the old one because the handle had broken off. Did that, and inserted the spick-and-span one. Done. Sears had been unable to render ME with a new separate out. Read many...

Grading Foot

PartSelect Number PS1609293

Manufacturer Separate Number 49621

If your washer shakes or vibrates loudly when it reaches its max speed, ensure that the tearing down legs are even. To ensure that the automatic washer is firmly on the ground using all tetrad legs, line up the legs so that the machine is level, and tighten the locking nuts on the legs that are threaded. Keep the washer atomic number 3 close to the floor as possible. Your framework power get rear legs that stage themselves, or it power have threaded legs all just about. Make trustworthy the rubber feet have not fagged. Supplant any missing Oregon damaged legs and feet. This replacement part is sold singly.

Installation Instructions

Bryan from west valley metropolis, Do

dryer had no heat, all other functions worked

After replacing the heat component as a guess, (which did not desexualise it), I measured emf with a DVOM, found bring dow cut off switch in op, And thanx to some tips connected parts select I ordered the the Thermal cut off kit, fast shipping, installed very easily and every is working properly Show more...

Dryer Cycling Thermoregulator

PartSelect Number PS11741405

Manufacturer Start Number WP3387134

This thermoregulator (Drier Operative Thermostat, Dryer Cycling Thermoregulator, Cycling Thermostat, Drier Thermostat) is victimised to maintain a temperature of 155 degrees in the dryer drum. The inner bias heater also allows this thermostat to provide a humiliated heat temperature of approximately 140 degrees when the low temperature setting is selected. The part measures 2 away 1.5 inches, comes in black/silver and is constructed of plastic and metal. The thermostat attaches to the blower wheel housing.

Fixes these symptoms

  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Shuts off too soon
  • Takes too long to dry
  • Visit more...

Induction Instructions

Uncle Tom from High Luff, NC

Drier blew dead air.

PartSelect is important for providing parts as requested. Unfortunately, neither of the 2 parts I ordered were connected my auto. My sad for not looking the actual set forth as an alternative of the verbal description. A word to the wise! Show more...

Appliance Type

  • Drier Parts
  • Kenmore Parts

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  • Kenmore Dryer Pulleys
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  • Kenmore Dryer Thermostats
  • Kenmore Dryer Timers
  • Kenmore Drier Valves
  • Kenmore Drier Wheels and Rollers
  • Kenmore Drier Conducting wire Plugs and Connectors

Popular Kenmore Dryer Models

Below are the most popular Kenmore Dryer models we have. Enter your model figure in the search corner to discover your model.

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